Language games

with Romanian:

Prieten (Ro) – means “friend” in Romanian.
Prietelis (Li) – means “friend” in Lithuanian.

Doina (Ro) – in ancient Romanian means “song”.
Daina (Li) – means “song”.
Schimb (Ro) (pronounce skimb) means “change”
Skamba (Li)- means “to sound”. I am quite sure that the sound of coins could have been the reason for using the word in both languages.

with Hungarian:

“Kibir” (Hu) means “to hold”. In Lithuanian is “kibiras” a bucket, to carry water.
“Gomb” (Hu) means button in Hungarian. “Gumbas” means “bruise” in Lithuanian.

another one:

“Flamand” means “hungry” in Romanian. I was wondering about the connection. Maybe there were many hungry Flemish who would eat everything up? Not far from Brasov, in the area which used to be a swamp, a sophisticated meliorations system from …. century was found. The geologians say that these days only Dutch or Flemish would have been able to install. So, the possibility, that Flemish were hungry after they constructed channels near Brasov were hungry is not absolutely absurd.
The confusion with Flemish must have occurred naming the music of Spanish Gypsies “Flamenco”. Since there is no other explanation than that during the Spanish rule in Netherlands the Flemish were perceived as strangers in Spain and the same word was used to name Gypsies.

(maybe there is some other explanation, if you know, tell!)

2006.07.24 Sibiu, Romania

Fotkes

yr, pasikrove, ziurime cia: http://candycactus.net/qdig/

Lost and Found

Objective time – 5 weeks. Subjective – 35 lives. Every morning when I get up the only thing that is exactly the same is the damp grass and the emptyness on the agenda. Don’t know how many kilometers I would make, I don`t know where I would sleep, what I would loose or what I would find. Everything else is new as if I would be a calf seeing the word for the first time. Colours, water from the springs on the way, the incredible red of tomato shining in the sun, the crust of the bread after a day in the sun on bikebag, the line between the suntanned skin and the parts that are always covered by the sandal staps turning clearer and fierce like the reality of the everyday life of people. Lukewarm does not exist. Hospitality, poverty, wickedness, richness, taste, heat, coldness, red, green, everything as if it would exist last minutes on this earth and comes to it`s absolute expression, without compromises.

I hesitated to write, all this time since I left. All people I meet on the way do not use internet. Many of them do not write, read. Yes, in a way I want to share with you my impressions, but why are they more important than yours? No matter where you are?

There are probably no single absolute solutions and right decisions. Yes, as a vegetarian I ate meet when in the beginning here in Romania I was not able to explain that I do not eat meet and people would not understand why I do not accept the best they offer for me. Yes, I don’t want to support corporations like Coca Cola or Nestle, but if there is no other chocolate to buy for people here as a present, I leave this political hatred behind. Even if I am aware of the fact, that only a very small privileged part of the world can use internet I write here, for you. All the objective world is a like a playground and it is up to us what we make out of it – you can eat with a fork or kill a person with it. Life sends one opportunities to play with it. It is up to us if we engage in this game.

I was about to continue cycling as I was looking for my lost jacket in the village and met few German working guys at the old castle. They invited me to stay, but I went further. After few kilometers I had to fix the chain. Strange, I thought, this place seems to hold me. So I went back.

Earlier days it used to be one of those “sanatorium” houses for children – bathroom where at least 20 children can fit in, high ceilings, a pink sign saying “playing room”. Reminds me of the similar “sanatory” house in Lithuania. My mother was challenged raising me alone I suppose, so she send me to a similar institution. It was my first experience that your things are being stolen, that they rub in soup in your hair no matter if you cry, and you stand in the line to stand under the shower to wash out that soup, in a line of naked crying children, being one of them. Now I think of it as a one the strange things that occurred in my life, which has changed a lot since then, just as this house. They are 3 – after having worked few years in things country, coming from Germany and not really wanting to go back, they decided to stay. Build up the house, and then start doing things together with the gypsies of the village.

The village used to be inhabited over centuries by Saxons, who built small castles around the churches to defend themselves when Turkish invadors would approach from the other side of the mountains. Now the castle doesn’t help. The invasion comes invisible, through the radio, playing music recorded far away from these places, through the chocolate and soft drinks being sold in the small shop – Kraft food, Nestle, Coca-Cola. They are already here. Who needs Gypsies playing live, or handmade baskets, when you can buy a plastic one? The monetary cake is a tricky thing creating the illusion that work is only an activity you are payed for. And there are so many things in human lives that are not transferable into monetary values. If you happen to be a good craftsman in times of machines – bad luck. Just as many women working raising children, as Gypsy musicians or basket weavers, or many other people in this world spending their days working are out of access of the monetary cake. And would you say they do not work if they do not earn anything?

In this castle in Apold, not far from Sighisoara, indeed resistance takes place. Three traveling carpenters work here. For food and living. Their work is invisible in the monetary cake. Like a living riddle – not payed and not slaves, who? White linen shirts and old fashioned hats radiate pride. Stairs, walls, roof – their work. If you want to be a good craftsman, you have to travel and work in exchange for food and not money at least 3 years and one day, they say. Rehlein does it already 4 years in different places. They come from Germany and call themselves “Freie Vogtländer”. One could envy the calmness and decisiveness of Rehlein who being 23 seems already to know exactly what he wants – no cell phone, no email, absolute minimum of possessions, life in simplicity.

I lost my jacket there in the village, but found this hidden world. I also met there Thomas, a guy from Germany who works as an organ builder in Sibiu. He invited me to come over and now I sit after a long time in an internet cafe and write this post.

2006.07. 19 Sibiu, Romania

Entering Romania

Coincidence

From Tokaj to the boarder. Strong wind today. Went 15 km wrong way, was in thoughts. Finally – boarder to Romania. And first cyclists I meet.

Emma and Boris decided to buy bicycles after having hitchhiked from France to Slovakia. Since few days they are cyclists.

We find out on the boarder, how to say “hello”, “good bye”, “could we please set a tent in your garden for the night, please” in Rumanesc and proceed all three. We are almost a critical mass of cyclists occupying one line. But there are no cars yet. Carriages of horses. Quite. Plains, somehow make one think of Mongolia, many sheep, and mountains in the horisont. We enter Romania.

I was going fast during the last weeks and enjoy our frequent breaks and talks. Boris and Emma agree with the idea to establish a small scholarship for people who want to quit the school, university or normal life. They would fit the profile. Forget books. Life is here. We are happy to have met and wonder about all the small coincidences that lead us to meet, including my 15 km in wrong direction.

Ferma

First night we look for a space for a tent. All plains, one can forget to be invisible. Someone waves us from the car – la ferma, he says. We follow. Finally we come to farm. I use Catalan and Italian mixture and we do manage to communicate. Astonished, that Romanesc is so similar to Catalan. Celestine is like a mom for us, taking care, explaining things.

I make pictures. Later on ask, if it would be possible to recharge the camera. Celestine excuses herself, they do not have the plug for the electricity.

They keep 3000 sheep. Celestine husband shows the blisters on his fingers. With a smile on his face he explains that the milk them manually. We sleep in the barn with other workers on the hay. I have never tasted fresh unsalted goat cheese before. Already for this taste it was worth to come 1500 km.

Language

Later on we discover that we are the same age with Celestine. Same age but completely different lifes. Not better or worse. Different. And we say goodbye to each other like sisters, I will keep you in my heart I say and don’t know if she understands the words.

We travel another ten days together with Emma and Boris, and learn from each other, discussing a lot. Boris is angry that he cannot speak English well. But is language that important? Every language sets a frameset in mind. Can you see the six shades of snow if you have only single word in your language? Our brains seems to filter everything out that does not fit the existing folders. Reality that does not let itself be grasped in words tends to end up in the trash bin. How would one perceive reality if one would forget all the languages?

We realise, how privileged we are to be kings of our time and let ourselves to think and talk what we see. We escaped the world of time bandits. One day we go 5 km. Another day a bit more. Then we would sit in a shade in a small bar of the village and talk among us or to people there.

Miller

In one village in a bar a miller, a man of around 50 years asked us to bring 5kg flour to his friend who runs a Pizzeria 15km away. Even if any additional kg is a challenge for us we are exited about the way people play here with the reality. Sure, he can bring the flour himself, but he takes the opportunity to play. Seeing all this country exploding with life – horses, flowers, grass, pigs, children, worms, flies, washed clothes on the line drying in the sun I have to think of the ordered modern world I used to experience in Germany. I was not allowed to dry clothes in the backyard. There is even a law in Germany not allowing to dry clothes outside on Sunday. In the house where I used to live we were not allowed to keep any animals. And I had difficulty finding a place to live together with my child. Children destroy the walls, they say.

Wicked EU
EU with all it’s pecularities is coming here. And we are sceptical about it. On one side we would wish for these people a little bit more prosperity, but would it bring prosperity? Rather all these grandmas doing home cheese will not be allowed to sell it any more, as it happened in Cyprus, and in many other places that commited themselves politicaly to this union. We feel as if traveling through a picture which is being bleached by the sun rapidly and will vanish as soon as we pass. In the mountains they are already busy constructing houses for tourists, the lakes are already property of few rich people. The scissors go apart as quickly as a modern mercedes pass the carriage with the horse. Molti saraci. Many poore people here. Putin bani. Little money.

And what is this – why do we feel, that people, that do not have much money easily give you food and receive you with open arms without a slight thought of getting something back? Does material prosperity and money change the minds?

Reality

That day I have the feeling, that it is time to travel for us our ways. I thought Boris did not want to say it directly to me and was giving me slight hints, that I can go. At one crossing, I suggested to say goodbye and after doing so I depart first.

The same day later we would meet again and would find out that Emma and Boris were upset with me saying goodbye after having spent 10 days without even giving each other a hug. Excellent example for cultural diversity and communication. They were upset, and I did not intend to upset them at all. So what and who is right? Well, we come to the conclusion constructivist have made already a while ago – there is no objective reality. If the glass is half full or half empty it is up to the meaning you make in your mind. Why do we take ourselves so important? What is more important – the process of 10 days, or the saying good bye? What is more important – what you feel, or what the person tells you in words? How can you manage to become sensitive, with a thin skin but still do not let yourself to be hurted?I tell them about Aikido, how you can defend yourself by changing the position. Is it possible to be unheartable changing the position of your mind?

We spend the night together at one farmers place on top of the mountain. I sleep next to a tomb, because it is the only flat place in the yeard. They laugh and I insist that it is better to sleep in such a nice place when your are alive and not dead. Next morning I go first, Emma and Boris stay and help to cut the grass.

Zlatna

Zoloto means gold in Russian. If the town is named like this, there must be something about it. I enjoy traveling without a travelers guide and discover things without having expected anything. In contrary to many towns already seen, the highest point is not the tower of the church, but the chimney. It looks as if the town would have two personalities. On one side of the road it looks like any other town. On the other side – a valley full of ruins of strange buildings, chimneys, bricks, huge steal constructions. Quite. The sounds of maschines, the smoke and the people rushing in and out are just imagination. A family works in the garden at the house on the other side of the road. It must be strange to live here, isn`t it, i start the conversation. It used to be a factory during the Ceauceascu times. Metal. It was polluted so strongly, that the land does not recover properly after the 15 years since it has been closed, as many other factories in other countries of the Eastern Block that used to be property of state. Afterwards everyone who knew how took advantage of the goods left – gold, uranium – accumulated wealth in a short time.

Hungary

A first challenge in Hungary is to pronounce the name of the place “Satoraljaujhely”. It is a long time I have been in a country I cannot communicate. Good experience for humbleness.

Later I find out that the place is called after the tents (sator) the Tatars set up after having burned down the town.

Miss small nice shops in Poland. Supermarket culture invaded the region of Tokaj just as groups of tourists. This is a first touristic place for me in this trip. Realise some kind of bad taste going through such places, still don’t know how to explain it. Maybe the unwillingness to be reduced to a function of a tourist spending money.

Slovenska

Karpathian mountains. This part of it is not interesting for tourism yet. What a blessing. Hot to go up. Patience. Keep repeating – take the reality as it is. Siesta in the shadow just at the side of the road. Finally the boarder. On top of the mountain – on one side Poland, on the other Slovakia. From now on it goes down the hill, around 100 km to get to the Hungarian boarder. Going down, entering the village. Children, many gypsy children lying on the street naked, seems like a game. They approach me as I pass shouting something. These are first gypsies I meet in my journey. Few kilometers further a group of gypsy youngster on bikes offer me cherries they just collected somewhere. Hot. I pour a bottle of water on clothes having covered myself completely from the sun and go fast down. This time without a map, just with the few names of places I have to pass.Getting dark. Passed Trebishov. There are no solitary farms like in Lithuania or Poland. Either villages or towns, or nothing at all. Go back to the town and look for a place to stay.

Toto. Ato. Malishka. Pesnicka. Slovenska. Take the reality as it is. Jahody. Chlebichek. Mishlenka. Maria is like 5 mothers in one. Lives alone. Used to work 39 years in a bakery. Now all children are gone, husband died 6 years ago. She says, don’t pitch up a tent, stay in the house, I live alone. She used to sing in the ensamble. Turnee in Kiew she remembers well. Long time passed, but her voice sounds as if it would come from the young body she shows me in a black white picture. She, on the stage in Kiew, dressed in national costume. In the morning her son, 35 comes over for a cup of coffee as always. He works on a truck collecting waste. I enjoy the simplicity and sincereity of their company after having spend years among many academics and highly educated species. I don’t manage to explain that it is too hard to carry a pink porcelian elephant on bicycle, so I take it with me with gratitude and a plan to set it free in another country.

It is horribly hot. Looking for a shadow. Komary. Means mosquitoes. Going further. Few days ago I was dreaming of staying somewhere for a few days. Tired. Going down the hill. First time in all the trip the wind blows off my hat. Let the bicycle and go to fetch the hat. It is on the small road leading to a hotel. I take is a sign to stay here. Even if I never sleep in hotels I decide to check if there is a civilized shadow without mosquitoes. I don’t even have slovakian crowns, but go to check.

In the end I enjoy the difference of movement swimming in the swimming pool. When I asked the owner, how much it would cost to set up a tent, he said, you know, slovenska i litwa – druzba. Here are keys of the separate house. Go and live there za darmo, no money. Oh well. Again a challenge to come up with something from my side. Yes, with money you don’t have to be creative, but in the game of natural exchange of energy you have to ; )

Being there get a message that Erte, a friend of mine in Lithuania realized our idea to burn a university diploma as a sign of critique of the educational system in Lithuania. Wow. I learned not to have expectations anymore and did not expect him to do it. He did!!! Things happen, oh my God.

2006.06.29

Kaktuso dziaugsmai

- kai pravaziuoja tiuninguota maliutkt ka ir joj groja tuts tuts muzika

- kai nusiperki ar gauni dovanu braskiu, susidedi jas i salma ir vaziuojant valgai

- kai randi slapta viecike prie upes, kur galima plikai nusimaudyt

- saukt zmonem dzien dobry ir kai jie atsako. tai nebuna labai daznai, bet pasitaiko.

- valgyt ledus

- uostyt zaibiskai bezikeociancius ramuneliu, sieno, jazminu ir dar daugybe bevardziu kvapu.

- isgasdint laps, kiskius ar dar kokius gyvulelius, kai tyliai kai dvasia pro juos pravaziuoju

- kai isbadeje uodai aplink skraidzooja,bet nehalo taves pasiekt, nes esi palapinej

- virtis kava, kai truksta ezero pabudimui. va cia tai jau taip gera, ojoj.

- kai nueini i dviraciu parde ir tau tiesiog padovanoja dviratinyku pirstines.

(cia buvo Lenkijoj)

Paliubomu

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