Archive for the World Bike Trip Category

Trade will save or enslave?

Posted in Caucasus, English, Stories and Tales, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , , on 2008-05-14 by candycactus

Armenia. Just crossed the boarder and walked to Haghpat. Green valley. Exactly as I like it. Mist in the air, green, clouds, water.

There was a certain guy Sayat Nova, who used to write poetry in Armenian, Georgian, Persian and Azeri, he spent many years here in this black monastery, he must have been sad, since he loved the sister of the king, and for this was imprisoned and later killed here. Now Armenians and Georgians cannot agree, who’s poet he was. But who cares? Those days no one cared about the nationality, but now.. I found a quite place in the cemetery and slept there. Cemeteries are the quietest places anyway. And if the ghosts should visit me in the sleep, they are welcome.

Although it is nearly impossible to imagine Armenians and Azeris in one place without fighting after the Karabakh war, there is such a place. Close to the boarder between Georgian and Armenia there is a bazar called Ptgavan, which means “the paradise of fruits”. There they trade peacefully – Armenians, Azeris from Georgia and Georgians. Like in times of Sayat Nova. Trade will save the world? Well, at least the small scale trade seems to be an excellent way for people to communicate again.

Corporations are just about to swallow all small things on one hand. But if I think consequently – in terms of nationalism, corporations provide excellent transnational brands that mentally somehow connect people. It is not about being Muslim or Christian, it is more about having Nokia or Sony Ericsson mobile phone. Trade will save or enslave?


i’m alive and gods

Posted in English, Middle East, Stories and Tales, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , on 2008-04-22 by candycactus

i guess in average i am most of the time alive. i thought this writing to a blog is maybe a form of perversion – to exibit oneselfs experience for the whole world, hm. on the other hand, if one walks on the roads of the world it is the same. ok, i go for compomise and write here again. but someone smart told me to write short.

kurdish turkey, turkish kurdistan, my blog banned by the “court decision” there, stones and sticks, black fume of the nevroz fire, then trabzon, “no, i am not a prostitute” my frequent answer there, then back to batumi – frogs in the air, mandarines on trees and cows on the roads, the joys i was missing in turkey. the smart black dog in the train station made me think that dogs are most normal people in the humanity.

now – in annas underground writing, the spring does not get through the walls, damn, too much screen and coffee, in few days – armenia by foot. any wishes to bring to the gods? can do this, they will be around.

if you happen to interact with the computer god, tell that it is not fair to make my mac die, and this because of the apple fault? common, too weird to be true. what offerings does one have to bring for computer gods, ugh?

In the shadows of USHBA

Posted in Caucasus, English, Photo, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , , , on 2007-09-18 by candycactus

It smelt like death. Dead meat. Must have been an animal or something, I thought. Hm, so this is the known Svaneti, the praised place. I was walking to Nakra, and looking at the pieces of woodlogs on the side of the small dirt road I thought only how I really like it small.. small mountains, small lakes, rivers, I missed Ajara, Spirakiai and felt so unfitting in that place. No people. Then a young woman with a child. We went to fetch some mzhave zkhali, the mineral water coming out from the ground. There used to be some tourist bases in soviet times. Many sovietzt toursist would come to hike around Ushba, bringing kedi, sportshoes that they would trade with locals to cheese and other food. Empty houses in Nakra. There used to be a sasadilo, an inn. I could imagine tourists flirting with the locals here on the stairs. Only ghosts remain.

I walk to the main street again, 6 km, no people, in the shadow of the narrow  valleys mountain. It is a little bit spooky, but there are no objective signs of what i should be afraid of.

In the main road there are no cars. In the way I enjoy the facts, since there is so much dust after anyone passes by. but now, the warm suns light is turning to dusk and i admitt to myselft that i dont want to walk here. one car comes from the front. we talk, they live in a village in the opposite  direction, say surprised xochax xochax, when they here my story, that i travel alone, by bike or by foot. Their excitement does not comfort me much, since I have read and heard of Svaneti being a little bit wild place. Therefore I let my bike in Batumi and came up by marshrutka.

They leave and I walk again. Strange, I think. THis landscape is not mine.


pics are here, look for Svaneti

Tao Klarjeti, arba basom per Kackara

Posted in Caucasus, Photo, Stories and Tales, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , , on 2007-09-01 by candycactus

Tao vadinosi ta salis pries tukstanti metu, Bagrationu – biski gruzinu, biski armenu kilmes karaliskosios seimos buveine. Vat tuo metu nuo Altajaus atvare gentys raitos chebros, OGHUS tribes, ju visos 24 buvo, kuriu palikuonys ir yra dabartiniai turkai, ir nepesti jie buvo, moterys raitos kaip ir vyrai, o Bizantija sukriosus, vieni ju – selchukai – Manzikerte ir nugalejo ta Bizantija. Buvo dar kitu daug, vieni ju khasarai, kuriu vieni palikuoniai karaimai Trakuose buvoja. O Tao gruzinai kalnuose kaip gyveno, tai ir iki siol gyvena, nors pavardes ju jau turkiskos, bet vistiek tas pacias dainas dainuoja kaip ir Ajarijoj – chirvelo nanai nai…

Kuo toliau tuo darausi tylesne, nieko neberasau cia, nors galeciau, apie tai kaip ejau pesciom per Kackara su sandaliais (3900m) , ir kai jau ant sniego slydo kojos, tai basa, ar kaip tvarte miegodama susalau (be miegaso, viska dariau kaip senais laikais, isskyrus kad vandeni i plastikini buteli pyliau ir dar fotografavau) ir variau vidury nakties 2500m aukstyje per kalnus, vilkam stugaujant ir pilnam menuliui svieciant tris kilus (arba amzinybe) iki pensiono, kur silciau, o visi prigasdino, kad vilkai ir meskos cia isties nesisarmatyja valgyt zmogiena, kas man atrodo ismislas, bet nenorejau to patirtim issiaiskinti, sakau, jei mirti, tai geriau nuo kanjono prie Ardanuch sokt, kraujo ne tiek daug butu.  ka as zinau, labai daug gali ivykti visko ir istisai vyksta. pradedu pavargti nuo intensyvumo, labai viskas marga marga, reik uzsidaryt i pili, ispudziu pasnika pasidaryt, kad paskui vel viska jaust.

Kalbant apie pilis tai tu neitiketinu piliu ir baznyciu greit nebeliks, stato rimta uztvanka. Viskas bus po vandeniu. Gal kokie protestai ir pades, bet siaip tai liudnai perspektyva atrodo.

Koordinaciu kodinis pavadinimas – Turkija: Yusufeli, Artvin. 


arba wiki su zemelapiais:

Posted in Caucasus, Downloads, Lietuviškai, Stories and Tales, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , on 2007-08-19 by candycactus

Siais laikais rasyti i poperiu ir ne i interneta yra visiskai nelogiska. Vat taip ir darome. Apie Adzarija – kitam G-ves numery. Popery.

(papildau šitą įrašą po daug metų ir pridedu nuorodą į straipsnį: ADŽARIJA)

Games and Bread

Posted in Caucasus, English, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , on 2007-07-04 by candycactus

You might ask yourself already, why she got stuck there, in Caucasus? I realised while traveling, that in becomes borring at some point not being involved in some bigger schemes. It is not a very big one, but small is also cool. Was running all month long to get funds, and finaly – got!

Tomorrow early in the morning I will be leaving my cosy place in Tbilisi and will go for three month in the villages in Georgia. The plan is to employ people there as photographers. Instead of taking pictures myself, I am carrying several disposable cameras and looking there for people who will want to take pics of themselves. It is about minorities. Dukhobory, Azeri, kurdish Yezidi, muslim Georgians… They say, there are 56 ethnicities living in Georgia.

I feel like a troubadour, bringing people what they long for. Instead of songs of troubadours I will bring some kind of bread and games, duonos ir zaidimu! The cameras will be a game part and the bread part is that they will be payed for their work.  

Will write after a considerable break now I guess. But you can write an sms +995 93 26 73 54 and I will write back!

Good summer. Geros vasaros.

E-san. Sound letters

Posted in Audiobooks, CandyCactus Music, Downloads, English, Middle East, Music, Poetry, Stories and Tales, Travel diary, World Bike Trip with tags , , on 2007-07-04 by candycactus

Finally, with the help of my friends, I managed to get all the cables, computer, soundcard and electricity to record some sound letters for you.

The whole thing is called E-san. Ezan in Turkish means prayer. And one can hear it five times every day almost everywhere in the Middle East.

The sounds are recorded while traveling from Lithuania –  Istanbul, Damascus, Jerusalem, Kars, mountains in Georgia.

There will be more in E-san. Bit by bit. 2.mp3 5.mp3 Bruecke.mp3